VIDEO Learn how to condition your baltic birch looms & bead boards, to keep them in great shape, besides preventing them from warping, splintering, & drying out. Below are the links & contact info I mentioned in the video.
How to make your own wax tutorial, as suggested by Robert Prince (he suggests using 1 part beeswax to 3 parts mineral oil, instead of what is suggested in this link): https://youtu.be/P6VINWpRgPc
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Transcript:
hi this is joan dice and i'm here to um
help you care for your baltic birch
uh you know one of you want to take
special care of them because you don't
want them to warp or splinter or break
and one of the biggest advices is do not
water-based product on it one poor girl
and it warped and just got really bad so
just make sure it's not wire water based
um you know lean to you know go to
oil base if you're wanting to decorate
so um so you know you can decorate it
with oil-based paints or stains even
stay away from the water-based stains
and um if you do decorate it make sure
you put a good sealant on it too
you know if you don't decorate the whole
thing please condition the rest of it
like say if you just decorate the part
wisdom warrior goddess and the other our
wisdom warrior looms and the
goddess looms you know there's a
beautiful picture on it that people like
to decorate well if you're only doing
that flat base you still want to
condition the rest of it to keep it from
it's but you know and then once you do
that um especially if you're in a really
dry environment a real human environment
but i suggest this for everybody keep an
eye on your loom you don't want it to
start looking dried out so you know
condition it every so often
when you got your limb you got this
which says the loom can be cared for by
using a light coat of beeswax this will
the wood smooth flexible less prone to
baltic birch is also perfect for
staining with any variety of stain just
stay away from the waterproof
like um i looked up minwax this morning
and some of them are i mean
water-based some of them are water-based
some stains even come with the poly base
that also provides a glossier matte
finish if desired please note that there
may be a slight color or shade
difference on your untreated piece due
to the nature of the baltic birch
this is a wooden product and although it
is strong and flexible proper care must
be taken to prevent damage
on my one of my silver silk wood because
you know wood you can see it's colored
differently here and there's even like a
line that's not anything that happened
in processing that's just a natural part
robert taught robert who's you know i
think he's the owner and he's also
the company that makes the looms i wrote
him to ask for more advice because you
know i went for the beeswax he had
suggested a beast wax but by
that looks like this and it comes in on
a cardboard you know with plastic over
like where i found it was you know that
big box craft store that's closed on
sundays in their leather section
but when i tried to do that i thought
actually i tried it on one of my jewel
looms and it didn't seem to
smooth out right so i caught you know i
chatted with him and he had some other
which i'm going to share with you today
so first of all like make sure you seal
it if you do use color i mean don't use
water-based but if you use you know you
color or use crayons on it or
sorry about this is a lot to remember
it says if you just use the beeswax she
could melt in the microwave on a medium
power setting or with a water bath but i
still had a hard time smoothing it out
that's why i wrote him but he said it
the easiest way to get it to spread is
to mix it with mineral oil um three
parts oil to one part wax and apply it
don't use olive oil as it spoils over
time mineral oil can be used all by
um the coating must dry for a full 24
hours after application and then wiped
again to make sure no excess remains
by coating the wood it protects it from
drying out and from coffee spills it's
easy to apply too much oil the key is to
initially try to put a very light coat
it just requires extra elbow grease to
so i'm going to and he even suggested um
beeswax mineral oil well beeswax oil
it was too much work for me so i was
originally thinking about trying that
but i thought i'm not going to do that
so in the com i mean in the description
section of this video i'll put in the um
i'll put in that video link
and also um he said make you know
instead of suggesting what they do use
five part i mean three parts mineral oil
so what i'm using instead
is since he said you could also use all
i decided i was going to use something
so i found in one of those big box um
hardware stores you know that this one i
happen to be the blue one
although there's an orange one a
different company but um i'm just going
to use this butcher block conditioner
because it is beeswax and mineral oil
has canoe wax in it too to help
regenerate rejuvenate the wood and
prevent drying and cracking
so um and it also says because it's made
for butcher blocks it's not gonna go
so that way i can use it for other
things because i'm too lazy to make
something for everything i like
what you want to do first with your loom
the camera over to where you could see
my workstation first ready okay the
first thing you want to do
is make sure you don't have any dust or
on your loom any you know loose fibers
because you don't want it trapped in the
so i'm just wiping it off i mean i'm
using a static electric cloth just to
that's what i do when i do a lot of
to put the wax on and you wanted to be a
and what i used was an old t-shirt that
and i mean that thing was 20 years old i
and i just love that t-shirt but finally
some of the holes got in embarrassing
so what you want to do is
just put a little bit i have another
i guess i'll use this one then
put a little bit of wax i don't put a
whole lot because i don't want to be um
rubbing a lot of it off tomorrow after
it sit for 24 hours so i just put a
so i just put a little bit on
and then just start rubbing it in
i like doing the flat part first it's a
and once i notice i don't have any more
put some more on the cloth
trying to get in the crevices
so you know it does small sections
and i had mentioned you can make your
own paste with that one video
and i did find where some people made it
because the video said some people
probably make it and sell it you know
and it looked like a paste and it was in
to be honest with you for the same price
as big bottle you only got two ounces
for the other one at the same price
so i went for the big multi-purpose
so i just keep rubbing i'm not seeing
any other oil sitting around either
i'd rather spread it out today
you know i'm just like you know
i kind of look for good prices on stuff
too and things easier to use because i'd
rather see my money and effort for
jewelry making and adding to my stash
i think the most fun is adding to the
now i did both flat parts and now i'm
going to start working on the
little sections you know with the
grooves and things and um just to
mention like if you decide that you want
to use a sealer a stain sealer or
especially on your big bigger looms
grooves make sure you're not clogging up
those grooves because then you might
have a hard time using it you want to
make sure you get those cleaned out
especially if you use a sea or because i
was looking at some sealers this morning
my one of my eagle statues is starting
to flake paint and i want to fix it so i
was looking for sealers and i thought
well if you use a spray sealer that
might really clog in those little
so you want to be careful how you do it
see i like i like just using the
conditioner it just makes it a real
since i got another second
jewel i mean silver silk limb i'll put
them together in a picture to show the
before and after hopefully it'll show
the difference in the picture
i just want to try and make sure i have
some lightly rubbed because i don't want
splinters and i don't want anything to
warp you know because like in the
summertime it's pretty humid here
then also in the winter time while
you know you're using the heat and that
but then you don't want to put next to a
humidifier or something too because that
can warp it i just rather it be
conditioned as much as i can be it
so this is my first video by myself but
i'm not going to be doing videos as
but every once in a while you'll see me
popping in doing a project i do have
three projects in mind two of them are
with the silver silk loom
and the third one i gotta try it it's in
my head but it's with the
i got to make a prototype to make sure
because i don't want to be teaching
something and then it looks awful
just to let you know if you do have any
i will keep looking at the videos or um
like if you're on facebook you could
click on my name and send me a message
if it is if you do send me a message
and it sounds weird i'll probably just
delete you but if it's about the loom or
any other questions about jewelry i
because you know how you don't want
so i got it all fed now i'm just making
sure i have all the little spots wiped
off that you know if there's any
that's where i wish i didn't cut my
finger now so i can get in there better
okay so we got that all rubbed in
and now just got to try it it's got to
dry for 24 hours so i'll be back in 24
you know the magic of video and we'll um
you know we'll take the excess off if
there is any and also look for dry spots
so i will be back with you shortly which
okay through the magic of video
we're back 24 hours later
and i've got another clean cloth i'm
going to use to wipe down the limb to
get the excess off i mean right now it
doesn't look like i have any excess but
i'm going to still wipe just in case
it's something i don't see
you know so much to remember to tell you
i hope i remembered everything
i you know i mentioned yesterday if you
have any questions you can also post
your questions on the jewelry making
with joel loom facebook page too you
could um just tag me in it or i i look
at all the posts on that page anyway
you know just maybe tag me or jules in a
and there's also a place where you can
write jewels with any questions on
you have about her looms and she has a
text and email you can write her too
she um i just saw a little tiny white
dry spot i want to get i'm just going to
but if you write her in text i might
be able to see it too it's whoever gets
to it first because i do help her with
but you know if it's something you want
for jules i'd let her know if it's
a question for me she'd let me know
so that's it i mean as far as brushing
it down i got my little white dry spot
that i'll check tomorrow just to make
sure it absorbed correctly i'm not
seeing any other dry spots
i wonder if i put these two together if
you're able to see the difference even
on the edges i'll see if i can bring
see one the one i oiled and beeswaxed is
a little bit darker than the others
put put it in there sorry
so it looks a little tiny darker now as
the thumbnail i'll try to take a picture
of both of them so you can see the
well um that's it for this tutorial
remember you can ask questions and um
you know maybe if you find a different
way to make it better please let us know
below the video and youtube or you know
so i hope to see you again in one of my
tutorials a little bit later
it's been nice spending time with you
and i'm sorry i'm not i'm not used to
doing this all by myself you know i
usually have my cohort ginger with me
which that means it's off the wall
so i'm a little bit more serious today
and that's what i'll be doing with my
tutorials it's just be whenever she pops
in right now she's wandering around in
so i'll be seeing you later and um
i hope you all have a great day